This one took me a while to write. I was procrastinating the enormity of the task at hand. The gratitude I have for the universe allowing me to still be able to hike in Grand Canyon and see Horseshoe Bend despite the rest of my vacation plans being cancelled due to Covid-19 is inexpressible.
I originally planned to not go at all. A huge portion of my trip was seeing the infamous Antelope Canyon. I had tickets for two for the upper and lower canyons. Not only was Antelope Canyon cancelled and refunded in it’s entirety, but my significant other was no longer able to join me in Arizona. I figured, what was the point?
After some slight nudging from a friend who could tell that I needed some “me” time, I elected to continue with the first leg of my adventure, adjust the second leg, and see what life had to offer me. If anything, I knew that getting out of town, hitting a trail or two, and just being in nature would revive me enough to call it worth it.
And, boy, was it worth it. I started driving from Phoenix, AZ to the Grand Canyon. On the way I stopped in my favorite organic, vegan restaurant in Sedona and bought nearly everything on their shortened Covid-19 menu. Couldn’t resist.
The drive was amazing, of course. I expected nothing less than beautiful red rocks in the distance, some snow in Flagstaff, and an amazing sunset. I arrived to Grand Canyon Plaza Hotel later in the evening and had just enough time to enjoy a bath and read before going to bed in anticipation of an early morning.
At 7am I finally decided to ditch the blankets and begin the day. On the calendar for adventure: South Kaibab Trail to Phantom Ranch. The hotel staff were super nice and helped me prepare breakfast (I eat a certain way) before leaving. Next time, I’d love to get to the hotel earlier and partake in the outside dining, pool, and hot tub. This wasn’t available due to the pandemic but I could envision how lovely it would be.
By 8am I was parked on the side of one of the park’s main roads, just an 8-minute walk to the trailhead. By 8:15am I was plowing my way down the canyon. It was a tiny bit icy at the beginning/top so rounding corners took a little skill. After the first few switchbacks, though, it was smooth sailing. Now, this hike was unique for me in one specific way– the physical direction of the hike itself. Totaling just under 5,000ft elevation, this hike is down into the canyon first, then elevation gain on the way back over the span of roughly 6miles (13miles roundtrip). I was used to doing this distance and elevation going up a mountain first but I knew I would struggle climbing up after first exerting myself to get down. I also wasn’t sure how long it would take me to do the nearly 1,000ft elevation per mile on the way back up so I booked it down to ensure I’d have enough daylight for plenty of breaks– maybe even a nap.
And, by booked it, I mean I was running. It was actually harder not to. Even after stopping for photos around ever corner, I still made it across the Colorado River and to Phantom Ranch in 2.5hrs. It was one of the most glorious 2.5hrs of my life.
Though I had been to Grand Canyon before and had walked along the rim and had ooo’d and awww’d with the rest of ’em, this time was different. The best way I can explain it is that before I saw the Grand Canyon; this time I experienced it. Delving down into the canyon was magical. To look ahead and see the rim inching further and further above my head, to touch the canyon walls, to witness its vastness and breadth from within rather than above, was spiritual. It goes on as far as the eye can see and the trail is unobstructed the entire way so one can glance up at any moment and have one’s breath taken away.
The river is wide and fast. Once I had crossed the suspension bridge, I saw people taking a rafting pit-stop. I couldn’t believe they were doing that! I wouldn’t survive one minute. I’ll stick to land, thank you.
Lunch on the little beach, some campground wandering, and several photos later, I decided I had best get back to it. Since it took 2.5hrs down, I figured I was in for at least 4hrs back up, if not more. Starting at roughly 1130am, the trek was long and arduous. Most of the way I was repeating to myself that I would never do this again. Even if my significant other begged me. Couldn’t make me. Couldn’t pay me. Several people passed me. Basically power walking. I figure they were robots. I’m not in bad shape at all but my thighs were on fire. It is not a hike to be taken lightly. For the first time EVER, I finished my water before finishing. The sun was strong and there is no shade. Stopping along the way was good, though. It allowed me more time to just sit and enjoy the experience. Not everyone can say they ventured down into a canyon, the GRAND canyon, to the canyon floor, and back. I wanted the challenge– and I got it, and it was amazing.
When eventually I saw those beginning switchbacks up ahead literal tears came to my eyes. I’d never been so happy to see switchbacks in my life. I knew that it wouldn’t be more than 30minutes to the top. And by 4:15pm I had made it back to the rim. Exactly 8hrs.
Thank the heavens for the lady who saw me hobbling in the direction of the car and offered me a ride. Covid or no covid, I needed the assistance. My feet were dead. My thighs had melted somewhere between hours 3 and 4. My back ached from carrying water and camera gear. But I did it.
The remainder of the vacation was significantly less strenuous. Based in the Hampton Inn & Suites in Page, AZ, I explored and hiked. First, I did Cathedral Wash Trail, a 3mi roundtrip trail through Marble Canyon that requires one to navigate around a few step drop offs and ends at the water. Elevation gain is only 300ft. The rock climbing-ish nature of this trail was both fun and challenging. Though small Cairns lined most of the way, it was easy to think that crossing left or crossing right would bring onward success only to find myself at an impasse, having to turn around and try again. It was like a puzzle or a maze. It was beautiful and peaceful. I encountered only three other people the whole trek.
Next, I visited the Hanging Garden Trail, a short but popular trail over large, smooth rock that ends at a mini vine waterfall. At 1.2mi roundtrip and only 60ft elevation, it is a favorite among people of all skill levels.
Last, but not least, I ended the day with sunset over Horseshoe Bend. Another example of Colorado River’s magical touch, this was by far the most beautiful portion of my vacation. No matter where I set up my camera, the imaging was stunning. And there are no railings the further around the bend you go so getting close to the edge is terrifying. I’ll let the photos speak for themselves. Of note, there is a $10 fee to get to Horseshoe Bend and it does require roughly 10-15minutes walk from the parking lot to the viewing deck. It got very chilly after the sun went down but it was well worth it to see the sun glint over the horizon. I would recommend aiming for a warm, clear day for the best photos.
All in all, I couldn’t have asked for a better trip given the circumstances. One day I hope to make it back for Antelope Canyon and everything else the area has to offer. For now, I’m content. Tired, but content.