Author: JB

Let’s just start by remembering where I’m coming from at this point in my life. Centralia, WA is a small town not immediately surrounded by much. Grocery options are predominantly Safeway or Walmart. There is one vegan-friendly restaurant in the neighboring town, Chehalis. Civilization is 20min north. (Just kidding, I love you guys!)

That said, enter Phoenix. And I’m talking Phoenix in winter, no less.

I spent half of my stay in the up-and-coming, shopping-friendly Desert Ridge roughly 15min North of downtown and next to the infamous neighborhood, Scottsdale. The second half of my stay was in the super cute, everything-within- a-10min-drive, suburb of Gilbert. To say I enjoyed being back within arms reach of a Target is an understatement. I panicked the first day grocery shopping because I forgot that I lived across the street.

And let’s talk about Mountainside Fitness. What a delight. I got an amazing deal for the 3-months I was there and each location is a little bit different and with unique perks.

The hiking around Phoenix is abundant and it is easy to drive to several national parks. I entered town after a few days in Joshua Tree and ended with a trip to Grand Canyon and Horseshoe Bend. One downside is that the terrain doesn’t greatly differ from place to place but hiking a mountain and getting a view is always worth it.

Phoenix itself is full of restaurants, bars, and cafes. There is plenty of shopping everywhere– literally everywhere. And the vibe is generally young and well-off. Downtown is the worst for parking so I only went there a few times to try out vegan food.  Otherwise, commuting to work from nearly any suburb is easy enough– the traffic never too heavy– and each suburb has it’s own vibe that makes Phoenix feel large and never-ending. Of course, Phoenix is the largest city in Arizona.

Despite this and the fact that the sun is plentiful year-round and winter is the equivalent of New York’s early Fall, Phoenix did produce one chip on my shoulder: price. Scottsdale is one of the wealthiest cities to live in with a quick Google search telling me that the median price for a single family home is $1 million. Though Scottsdale is not technically Phoenix, to those of us who live elsewhere, it would be like saying that Queens is not technically Manhattan. Sure. But it’s all New York City. And the affluent vibe can often be felt in the general Phoenix and surrounding areas. The reason why this bothers me is because Phoenix, in general, is a lovely place to live. The minute I drove into town I felt the pull. But I get frustrated when every large town charges the same price for food and drink and hotel as if it were New York City. Having lived there for several years, I knew what I was getting into when I made that move. I knew that drinks would be $15-20 on the lower end. I knew that I would have to pay for the splendor that is Manhattan. But I did not realize that as I traveled throughout the country that the same would be expected of me from most major cities. I will admit, though, that it’s hard not to get swept up when the view is gorgeous, the sun is strong, and everyone’s dog is providing puppy therapy.

That said, I’m down for the ride. Whatever a city wants to offer me, I’ll take with as much grace as I can. I’m just very much realizing that big cities are not the best “bang for your buck” and that it might be better for me to just vacation there often. And Phoenix is definitely a place that I would like to frequent. In the winter. When I won’t melt.

Plus, I’ll have to return because Covid-19 put a real damper on the end of my Phoenix experience!

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This one took me a while to write. I was procrastinating the enormity of the task at hand. The gratitude I have for the universe allowing me to still be able to hike in Grand Canyon and see Horseshoe Bend despite the rest of my vacation plans being cancelled due to Covid-19 is inexpressible.

I originally planned to not go at all. A huge portion of my trip was seeing the infamous Antelope Canyon. I had tickets for two for the upper and lower canyons. Not only was Antelope Canyon cancelled and refunded in it’s entirety, but my significant other was no longer able to join me in Arizona. I figured, what was the point?

After some slight nudging from a friend who could tell that I needed some “me” time, I elected to continue with the first leg of my adventure, adjust the second leg, and see what life had to offer me. If anything, I knew that getting out of town, hitting a trail or two, and just  being in nature would revive me enough to call it worth it.

And, boy, was it worth it. I started driving from Phoenix, AZ to the Grand Canyon. On the way I stopped in my favorite organic, vegan restaurant in Sedona and bought nearly everything on their shortened Covid-19 menu. Couldn’t resist.

The drive was amazing, of course. I expected nothing less than beautiful red rocks in the distance, some snow in Flagstaff, and an amazing sunset. I arrived to Grand Canyon Plaza Hotel later in the evening and had just enough time to enjoy a bath and read before going to bed in anticipation of an early morning.

At 7am I finally decided to ditch the blankets and  begin the day. On the calendar for adventure: South Kaibab Trail to Phantom Ranch. The hotel staff were super nice and helped me prepare breakfast (I eat a certain way) before leaving. Next time, I’d love to get to the hotel earlier and partake in the outside dining, pool, and hot tub. This wasn’t available due to the pandemic but I could envision how lovely it would be.

By 8am I was parked on the side of one of the park’s main roads, just an 8-minute walk to the trailhead. By 8:15am I was plowing my way down the canyon. It was a tiny bit icy at the beginning/top so rounding corners took a little skill. After the first few switchbacks, though, it was smooth sailing. Now, this hike was unique for me in one specific way– the physical direction of the hike itself. Totaling just under 5,000ft elevation, this hike is down into the canyon first, then elevation gain on the way back over the span of roughly 6miles (13miles roundtrip). I was used to doing this distance and elevation going up a mountain first but I knew I would struggle climbing up after first exerting myself to get down. I also wasn’t sure how long it would take me to do the nearly 1,000ft elevation per mile on the way back up so I booked it down to ensure I’d have enough daylight for plenty of breaks– maybe even a nap.

And, by booked it, I mean I was running. It was actually harder not to. Even after stopping for photos around ever corner, I still made it across the Colorado River and to Phantom Ranch in 2.5hrs. It was one of the most glorious 2.5hrs of my life.

Though I had been to Grand Canyon before and had walked along the rim and had ooo’d and awww’d with the rest of ’em, this time was different. The best way I can explain it is that before I saw the Grand Canyon; this time I experienced it. Delving down into the canyon was magical. To look ahead and see the rim inching further and further above my head, to touch the canyon walls, to witness its vastness and breadth from within rather than above, was spiritual. It goes on as far as the eye can see and the trail is unobstructed the entire way so one can glance up at any moment and have one’s breath taken away.

The river is wide and fast. Once I had crossed the suspension bridge, I saw people taking a rafting pit-stop. I couldn’t believe they were doing that! I wouldn’t survive one minute. I’ll stick to land, thank you.

Lunch on the little beach, some campground wandering, and several photos later, I decided I had best get back to it. Since it took 2.5hrs down, I figured I was in for at least 4hrs back up, if not more. Starting at roughly 1130am, the trek was long and arduous. Most of the way I was repeating to myself that I would never do this again. Even if my significant other begged me. Couldn’t make me. Couldn’t pay me. Several people passed me. Basically power walking. I figure they were robots. I’m not in bad shape at all but my thighs were on fire. It is not a hike to be taken lightly. For the first time EVER, I finished my water before finishing. The sun was strong and there is no shade. Stopping along the way was good, though. It allowed me more time to just sit and enjoy the experience. Not everyone can say they ventured down into a canyon, the GRAND canyon, to the canyon floor, and back. I wanted the challenge– and I got it, and it was amazing.

When eventually I saw those beginning switchbacks up ahead literal tears came to my eyes. I’d never been so happy to see switchbacks in my life. I knew that it wouldn’t be more than 30minutes to the top. And by 4:15pm I had made it back to the rim. Exactly 8hrs.

Thank the heavens for the lady who saw me hobbling in the direction of the car and offered me a ride. Covid or no covid, I needed the assistance. My feet were dead. My thighs had melted somewhere between hours 3 and 4. My back ached from carrying water and camera gear. But I did it.

The remainder of the vacation was significantly less strenuous. Based in the Hampton Inn & Suites in Page, AZ, I explored and hiked. First, I did Cathedral Wash Trail, a 3mi roundtrip trail through Marble Canyon that requires one to navigate around a few step drop offs and ends at the water. Elevation gain is only 300ft. The rock climbing-ish nature of this trail was both fun and challenging. Though small Cairns lined most of the way, it was easy to think that crossing left or crossing right would bring onward success only to find myself at an impasse, having to turn around and try again. It was like a puzzle or a maze. It was beautiful and peaceful. I encountered only three other people the whole trek.

Next, I visited the Hanging Garden Trail, a short but popular trail over large, smooth rock that ends at a mini vine waterfall. At 1.2mi roundtrip and only 60ft elevation, it is a favorite among people of all skill levels.

Last, but not least, I ended the day with sunset over Horseshoe Bend. Another example of Colorado River’s magical touch, this was by far the most beautiful portion of my vacation. No matter where I set up my camera, the imaging was stunning. And there are no railings the further around the bend you go so getting close to the edge is terrifying. I’ll let the photos speak for themselves. Of note, there is a $10 fee to get to Horseshoe Bend and it does require roughly 10-15minutes walk from the parking lot to the viewing deck. It got very chilly after the sun went down but it was well worth it to see the sun glint over the horizon. I would recommend aiming for a warm, clear day for the best photos.

All in all, I couldn’t have asked for a better trip given the circumstances. One day I hope to make it back for Antelope Canyon and everything else the area has to offer. For now, I’m content. Tired, but content.

What a treat!!

My trips to Sedona were hands down delightful.

First and foremost, the views are breathtaking. From the snow-capped mountains in the distance to the bright red mountains in the foreground, I couldn’t stop exclaiming “oooo” and “ahhhh”. There are so many options here for hiking. The town itself is super cute with shops and restaurants everywhere. The scenery is gorgeous from any vantage point. And it’s only a 2hr drive from Phoenix. My favorite vegan restaurant, ChocolaTree Organic Oasis, even has monk fruit desserts!!!

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The first trip I did Devil’s Bridge via Chuck Wagon Trail (5.7mi out and back, 700ft elevation gain). The view was amazing. And being on that bridge for a photograph was mildly terrifying though it looks way scarier in the picture!

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The second time, I stopped in Sedona on my way to Page, AZ and explored a bit of Little Horse Trailhead, which is just off of the expressway before going into town.

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There is so much to do and so much to explore for being a smaller town. I was pleasantly surprised and will make it a point to stop there any time I’m in AZ– both for hiking and dessert 😉

Saguaro NP is a beautiful national park, albeit, not the most unique national park. Luckily, for those who are looking for a saguaro-like setting in which to hike beneath the sun, Arizona has plenty. Here is my experience:

I traversed Saguaro NP over two days, though it can easily be fit into one. I did this because there is an East side and a West side. This national park sits on either side of a little town called Tucson, AZ (:p). And though neither side is very large, it is a minimum drive of 45min from one side to the other and easily 45min within each side. In the interest of time and to fit in other sightseeing, exploring over two mornings/afternoons made the most sense.

Oddly enough, both sides are actually pretty different from each other. While one might say that the East side is more kid-friendly and educational with more placards along trails and short/easier hikes, the West side feels like it is bursting with twice as many saguaros.  The Hugh Norris, Sendero Esperanza, Dobbie Wash loop is a 6.4mi loop that gains 1200ft in elevation and really shows off what the West side has to offer. It is rated as moderate and offers amazing views of the park and all of its saguaros. The Freeman Homestead Nature trail on the East side offers several informational placards and the opportunity for off-trail rock scramble for amazing photos (1.1mi loop, 100ft elevation gain).

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If a 3hr drive South of Phoenix is not an option, trails in the McDowell Sonoran Preserve in North Scottsdale offer similar views and a seemingly endless amount of trail options regarding difficulty and distance. A highlight in this region is the Gateway Loop Trail (4.2mi loop, 700ft elevation gain). North Scottsdale itself is a delight and I highly recommend grabbing a bite after hiking at True Food Kitchen in the upscale center called The Shops.

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Length: 6 days

Route: Centralia- Portland- Eugene- The Oregon Coast- Redwoods NP- San Francisco- Salinas- The California Coast- Santa Barbara- Ventura- Malibu- Venice- Joshua Tree NP- Phoenix

Sights: 3

This was hands down the best drive ever. I mean, THE BEST. I couldn’t get enough of it. I can’t wait to do it again.

The drive began in Centralia, WA. From there, I drove to Portland, OR to get breakfast from one of my new favorite spots, Off The Griddle. I then continued South to Eugene, OR where I spent the night (Eugene Whiteaker International Hostel), procured breakfast from Morning Glory Café, and sampled several necessarily unnecessary treats from Voodoo Doughnut . I then drove West to the coastal town of Florence and proceeded down Route 101 into California.

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Now, this is where I first lost my mind, ya’ll. Three words: Redwoods National Park. Four more words: Avenue of the Giants. If you don’t know what I’m talking about, you haven’t lived. I am so serious! I spent a day and a half in this national and state park and I almost couldn’t tear myself away to continue on my journey. I spent the first afternoon/evening exploring on Big Tree Circle Trail (0.3mi, easy) and Fern Canyon Loop Trail (1.2mi, easy, requires high clearance vehicle to traverse the road that leads to the trail). The next morning I almost continued on my journey South. But about 30min outside of Eureka, I couldn’t help it. I turned around. I had to see more. And I am so glad that I did! I started with a leisurely 1.3mi trail through old growth called Lady Bird Johnson Grove Trail. Then a park ranger told me about a little thing called Avenue of the Giants. It was technically on the way to my next stop, San Francisco, so I said why not. A slight deviation from the 101 but it might be worth it. And worth it it was! It’s like driving through a dream. A road literally built among the Redwoods. As tall as the eye can see along a narrow winding road, the sun breaking through the moss, the bark a deep red. All of my senses were on overload. The smell alone. Like, where is that bottled so I can buy it? A candle, maybe?? I was transported to a majestic place and I was mesmerized. The coolest part was driving through one of the largest Redwoods in my car. I tried to record myself driving through and scraped my side-mirror on the inside of the tree. But nevermind that.

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Well, I eventually had to leave. At this point, I had the choice to continue along Route 101 or deviate back to the coast along the infamous Route 1. A little out of the way and certainly not as fast, but this was a journey, after all. The California coast, in general, is so beautiful, offering so many vantage points for viewing the ocean and lined with so many cute towns. From Crescent City to Ventura, I pulled over what felt like every 15minutes to take a photo or soak it all in. If it were up to me, I would have spent multiple days on multiple beaches, really taking my time and milking this adventure. Highlights included the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco with a high school friend, the John Steinbeck museum in his hometown of Salinas (I totally geeked out; hands down my favorite author of all time), and sunset in Santa Barbara.

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After a night in Ventura to recuperate, it was finally time to venture inland. One last coastal trek from Malibu to Santa Monica and I suddenly found myself getting lunch at one of my all-time favorite vegan spots, Café Gratitude. From there, I drove 3 short hours to the West and found myself at Joshua Tree National Park. What a gem. Joshua trees growing everywhere! This was my first experience in a Southwest/desert national park. The coolest thing about this park is that one can pull over literally anywhere along the road and just start walking in any direction for as far as the eye can see. Though there are some designated trails, I enjoyed going off-trail and getting “lost” but never being far from the car or the road. Of course, I visited popular sites such as Hidden Valley Trail (1mi loop) and Skull Rock (off the side of the road). Cholla Cactus Gardens (off the side of the road) was my ultimate favorite and I immediately fell in love with the cactus so aptly named “Teddy Bear.” My biggest suggestion, though: don’t venture off-trail without sturdy boots! I stepped many-a-time on a broken piece of cactus and it went right into the sole of my shoe, which was impossible to get out because, well, it’s a cactus. Minor details. Minimal hindrance.

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I spent the night in a nearby hotel because all of the campgrounds are often full at this time of the year (I forgot that peak season for this area is Winter!) but not before experiencing one hell of a sunset. I returned the next morning for a half day of adventuring and climbing before continuing on to my final destination. 3.5hours later, to Phoenix I had arrived. And while one adventure ended, several more were to come as I explored the state of Arizona.

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Where do I begin. I’ll start by saying that, venturing from a bigger city to a smaller town, I didn’t love it. But I certainly didn’t hate it. The location was… fine. I was fortunate enough to find a good gym with a sauna that I frequented daily and highly recommend (Thorbeckes) and which was near one of the nicest SafeWays I’ve ever been in. Walmart is in the next town over, roughly 10min away, and there is coffee available everywhere. And did I mention they have an outlet mall!?! What made living in Centralia that much more sweet was that I had one of the best work experiences thus far. My co-workers were more than delightful. Just the right kind of cynicism, sarcasm, and positivity that an emergency department needs, plus all of the talent and drive. I couldn’t have asked for a better environment. But, to live there, I guess that’s another story.

Centralia is appropriately named, being nearly in the center of Washington state’s attractions. It is 1.5hrs North of Portland and roughly the same distance South from Seattle. Mount Rainier and Mount St. Helens are both roughly 2 hours to the East and Olympic National Park begins just an hour or so to the Northwest. This is precisely why I chose Centralia. But being that centrally located in this rural town meant that I was kind of far from everything that was “happening”. Olympia, the state’s capital, is roughly 30 minutes North. Tacoma, a larger city than Olympia but smaller than Seattle, is roughly 30 minutes further North past Olympia. It’s in those two cities that one can find the best plant-based food, wine bars, parks, shopping, and coffee shops. And let’s not forget the REI! This is where a hiking millennial like me wants to be. So, though it wasn’t far, it wasn’t the ideal distance from home to grab a bite to eat or a drink.

Living in a small town has its perks, though, especially Centralia which is actually not that small when compared to other towns around the country. Traffic was fantastic and parking always free. It was on the quieter side. And it was kind of cool to be woken up by chickens each morning at my bnb. The most lovely coffeeshop I’ve ever been in I found in Chehalis– a house turned coffee shop and bookstore offering subscription services of books picked personally by the owner to match the tastes of the subscriber (Shakespeare & Co. ). In this same neighboring town there lies the restaurant Once Upon a Thyme which offers very tasty vegan options and has the most welcoming service.

That said, I found Washington state to be very similar to New York State. Outside of the major cities, New York State is quite rural and very conservative. It turns out that a lot of people think that New York State is just like New York City and that couldn’t be farther from the truth. I found that Washington residents who do not live in the bigger cities find it similarly frustrating to be compared to Seattle. One stark difference, though, and a definite downside to living in Washington, was how polarized the above-mentioned made the state. There didn’t appear to be much middle ground when it came to politics. Those in bigger cities were seemingly the extreme of liberals and those in smaller towns were seemingly the extreme of conservatives. Each side seemingly terrified of the other. Communication and understanding were sorely lacking as was cultural and racial diversity outside of the bigger cities– the cities themselves not blowing me away in that regard either. Coming from a place like New York City where literally everyone around the world is represented, it was hard to live in a place where that wasn’t the case.

I’m quite obviously a liberal, if you look at my posts and my interests. But I’d like to consider myself open-minded. I’d like to believe that I understand that not everything goes my way and not everyone thinks how I think, and that that’s okay. There’s always compromise. I think the more important part is figuring out how to remove all of the BS and collectively determining what’s actually important about being alive and being alive in this time specifically. I, like everyone else, pictured Washington State to be more generally liberal than it is. But I can honestly say that I embraced the experience with an open heart. All I wanted to do was enjoy the natural beauties that the state had to offer and to be the best damn nurse that I could in my new job. Everywhere I go I encounter racism, sexism, and people who just don’t like me because of my beliefs. I’m happy to say that Centralia contributed but a tiny portion of those experiences because, well, there is no place that’s perfect. My eyes have been sufficiently opened and I hope that I’ve learned something both about the country and about myself and that I strive forward with that new knowledge always in the back of my mind.

I would visit Centralia again in a heartbeat. Especially to see my coworkers. I love you guys! 🥰

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The Route: Centralia- Ape Caves – Hummocks Trail- Centralia

Days: 1

http://www.mountsthelens.com/ape-caves.html

I visited Mount St. Helens at the end of October when several of the roads within the park were closed, including to the popular Johnston Ridge Observatory.  There, one can learn about the famous 1980 eruption of this stratovolcano that took 57 lives and cost billions in property damage.

I didn’t let the observatory’s seasonal closure get me down, though. I made it as far as Hummocks Trail and turned an otherwise unfortunate bout of luck into a splendid day. Hummocks Trail is where the story ends. It began in the southern region of the park at a place called the Ape Caves.

Though I’m still unsure how I feel about the name, I know exactly how I feel about the experience. It was awesome! I, of course, played it more safe as I was hiking alone and didn’t want to find myself trapped, but, if one dared to, one could crawl in for who knows how long! There’s the upper cave (1.5mi, 2.5hrs out and back) and the lower cave (0.75mi, 1hr out and back) with the upper cave being for the more adventurous as it requires scrambling over boulders and scaling a lava wall. In the interest of time, I chose the lower cave. I was not disappointed. With only one headlamp and my phone flashlight I was woefully underprepared. It was impossible to see in front of me as the complete darkness just swallowed the light. I can’t wait to visit again with more gear.

I nearly broke an ankle at every step and I was terrified monkeys would come thrashing out at me from every corner, but it was so amazing to witness history in that form. I tried to take pictures but, obviously, they do it no justice.

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Once back out in fresh air and sunlight, I continued my journey to what I was hoping would be Johnston Ridge Conservatory. Mt. St. Helens and the surrounding landscape are in full view for a good portion of the drive which made it impossible for me to stay on time as I could not stop pulling over to take photos.

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I eventually got to the last trail before the road block which happens to be Hummocks Trail. This trail is a 2.4mi loop with the option to venture further along Boundary Trail which takes you to Spirit Lake and more. There are great views of the volcano along the way and, on such a bright and sunny day, it was both pleasent and serene. For a few moments I shared the trail with a deer, but otherwise, I was wrapped in solitude. That is my favorite way to hike. No distraction. Just me and the trees and the birds and the breeze.

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Though I wish I could have done more hiking, maybe even to the base of the volcano, I didn’t want to push my luck by venturing out without any ranger or authority figure knowing, without signing in somewhere, and without getting the advice of the staff at the observatory beforehand. So maybe next time.

I couldn’t have asked for a more beautiful day, though, and I have no regrets. I unapologetically soaked up the sights, sounds, and sun and it was a fantastic end to my first month in the PNW.

The Route: Centralia- Paradise- Centralia

Days: 1

The only entrance to Mt. Rainier that was still open in October was Paradise, as that is the “prime winter-use area in the park” https://www.nps.gov/mora/planyourvisit/paradise.htm.

Though the visitor center is closed all but weekends during the winter season (Oct-May), the trails are open. So my day-trek around and about Mt. Rainier started with the drive to the Henry Jackson Visitor Center parking lot. I stopped for photos of waterfalls along the way.

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From the parking lot, one trail branches off into several. I choose to ascend via the Skyline Trail, hitting Glacier Vista and Panorama Point along the way, and then scramble down Golden Gate Trail to Myrtle Falls. I realized very quickly that my trip would not be very successful or enjoyable without my microspikes. The sky was clear and the sun was shining bright the day I chose to go, and it had been nice weather for the past few days, so the snow that had fallen was mid-melt. The first part of the initial trail from the parking lot is paved and in several areas concrete was exposed. But several more areas were iced over from the snow melting during the day and re-freezing at night. Half the time I couldn’t decide if I wanted the damn spikes on or not and for a good bit I just walked on concert with them on. But once the path branched and I chose to continue onward and upward, it became mostly hard packed snow/ice and the microspikes were a must. The view at Glacier Vista  is amazing, being right next to Mt. Rainier. From that vantage point, Rainier doesn’t even seem like a hard hike :p

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After climbing a bit further, sometimes on snow and sometimes on exposed man-made steps, I came upon Panorama Point. Most appropriately named. The sky was so clear that I could see Mt. Hood, Mt. St. Helens, and Mt. Adams in the distance. It was incredible! I spent a lot of time there exploring, taking photos, and soaking in the view. Note: you have to look off into the distance to see all three peaks!

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I could have continued hiking the Skyline Trail (Upper or Lower) making a wide loop back to the parking lot but I decided to cut through the center of the loop via the Golden Gate Trail to see Myrtle Falls. I had heard such good things about Myrtle Falls and I was far from disappointed. One of the most majestic and magical waterfalls I have ever seen. Partially frozen and partially flowing, I just stood in awe. Warning, given the ice situation, it was not easy to scramble back up the hill after sliding down to reach the viewing point, even with microspikes on!

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On the drive home I stopped at Narada Falls which was another beautiful waterfall (short walk from a pitchoff parking lot) and Cougar Rock Campground for sunset views of The Mountain. I am infamous for stopping too often for pictures but when I travel alone I don’t have anyone to nag me, so, stop I did!

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I wish that I could have visited before most of the park was closed. I had originally prepared to camp at least two nights in the park and visit 3 different sections. If I ever return, will aim for August or September to try to avoid crowds but still have clear and sunny skies. I pushed my luck going so late in the season but just one day on one trail was more than worth it. And, furthermore, they say that if there’s only one trail you can do in all of Mt. Rainier NP, Skyline Trail is the one to do!

Length: 11 days

Cities: 6 (Cleveland, Chicago, Minneapolis, Billings, Missoula, Spokane)

Sights: 4 (Badlands NP, Mt. Rushmore, Devil’s Tower, Ewan Garden of One Thousand Buddhas)

Though traveling with a means to an end, this trip across the northern part of the United States via I-90 was fabulous. Starting in my hometown, Rochester, NY, I made it to Centralia, WA in 11 days. Here’s the skinny:

In Cleveland, the highlight was the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. Driving and parking were relatively easy. Airbnbs were plentiful. Two of my favorite places to eat were Cleveland Vegan and Townhall, the latter being in a very trendy area that I can’t wait to explore more of one day. Just outside of downtown, there are plenty of similar young, fun neighborhoods with lots to eat, drink, and peruse.

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Chicago was unsurprisingly expensive and the streets annoyingly congested. I felt like I was back in New York City. Hotels cost the same amount as airbnb’s so I chose a nice one in the heart of downtown that had a gym and just swallowed the expense to park my car in a garage while I walked or used Lyft to get around. In all fairness, Chicago has a ton to offer. Millennium Park was just plain fun. And the art museum is to die for– one full day from open to close is barely enough! I would return to Chicago just to spend a few more hours there. Also, to my delight, Hamilton was playing around the corner from my hotel. Instead of getting an early start on Minneapolis, I delayed my travels by a few hours and I was not disappointed. That’s a prime example of the advantage of being in a big city.

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Minneapolis was bittersweet. As with all big cities, Minneapolis has its share of poor and run down neighborhoods. I had the privilege to drive around and also catch the beauty of Minneapolis, one of my favorites being the Minnehaha Park and falls. Of course, I walked through the Mall of America just to see what that was all about, and hot damn, that’s a big mall. The Minneapolis Institute of Art also did not disappoint– great selection of artwork and well organized. Trio Plant-based and fig + farro are great spots for a vegan bite and a good drink.

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Badlands National Park is hands down one of the coolest parks I’ve been to. It doesn’t surpass Zion, but it’s close. The views are vast and expansive. The wildlife is plentiful. And the sunsets are just so breathtaking. And it was easy to get a campsite in the off-season. A truly once in a lifetime experience. Expect a bit of driving.

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There was construction at Mount Rushmore, but that did not stop me from having a good time. It was just so cool to see this famous location in person. My favorite part, though, was driving around through the hills of the nearby state park where you could catch glimpses of Mount Rushmore through tunnels and at various heights. I hadn’t done a ton of research before going, so this was a genuine surprise. Of note, there are other national monuments in that nearby Custer State Park, but there is a separate $20 entrance fee, so, if you plan to visit, I recommend taking a few days to camp and cover the entire area. Also, Wind Cave National Park is near Mount Rushmore and the Badlands but I decided not to go because the caves were closed for construction during the off-season, which would defeat the purpose of the visit.

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Last on the list before reaching Montana was Devil’s Tower. Its monumental stature can be noted from miles away driving toward it on the freeway. Being next to it in person is amazing. Like. Wtf. What is it doing there, this tower? Why aren’t there more of them? Tell me all of the history! More amazing was watching people scale the sides of it attempting to make it to the top and back before sundown. Some people get stuck, unable to figure out the next hand or foot-hold. #goals.

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Montana is a huge freaking state, which is why I stopped in two cities while driving through it. The first was Billings. Though there isn’t much to that city, it’s not small. Everything that you need and more can be found in Billings. I chose to spend an extra day there to get some much-needed R&R after all the camping and driving I had done thus far. Part of that involved going to the Pictograph State Park, which was lovely, and I got lots of pictures of supposedly original cave art.

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My next Montana stop was in Missoula. What a gem! I had no idea I’d fall in love with this town. Though not huge, it’s young and fun and has a lot going for it. The nerd that I am, my favorite part was the gym. At Peak Health & Wellness, I truly felt the spa experience. A variety of equipment, several workout spaces, a fully equipped, high-end locker room, and a sauna. I could have stayed in there all day. And everyone in Missoula was so kind. I enjoyed a glass of wine and small bites at the downtown wine bar Plonk Missoula and the next morning did some computer work while enjoying a cup of joe at Break Coffee. Parking was easy;  the Missoula Art Museum is small but impactful. I just really liked it there.

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Finally, the trek into Washington State. The drive between Montana and Washington is just beautiful. So vast. So green. Definitely enjoyable and went by quickly. On the way, just outside of Missoula, I stopped at the Ewan Garden of One Thousand Buddhas. What a sight to see! Spokane, for me, was similar to Minneapolis. I found an area downtown with the most amazing plant-based food and pastries almost of all time (Boots Bakery & Lounge— I definitely backslid on my sweets here), but I also found it to be a little rundown in certain areas. I had no expectation, but maybe I need to go back and spend more time there and really take in what it has to offer.

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Of note, I would have stopped in both Yellowstone and Glacier National Park during my road trip and extended it by five or so days, but I got snowed out of both of them. Several weather reports said that there was difficulty seeing more than a few yards ahead while driving and the main attraction in Glacier, the Going-to-the-Sun road, was closed. So I skipped this time with hope that the future will offer another chance.