Easily one of the most peaceful trips in Alaska thus far. There is so much to see in Lake Clark– Port Alsworth, Iliamna Volcano, Dick Proenneke’s Cabin on Twin Lakes. But, of course, they are all separate from each other and require access by plane. So I decided to stick to Port Alsworth, the main hub for the national parks service, and soak up all that I could during my last solo excursion in Alaska.
I flew to Port Alsworth with Lake and Penninsula Air (LPA) for $500 roundtrip plus $0.92/pound excess weight over 50lbs. The only thing to keep in mind is that there will likely be passengers going to other areas of the park so the plane will likely make multiple stops to other villages prior to Port Alsworth. The front desk can tell you if the flight will be direct or not. Also, of course, weather will determine how fast the plane will go, if it will go at all.
Once on the ground, I was greeted by the hostess of the private campground with whom I chose to camp. Beth of Tulchina Adventures is quiet and sweet. She drove me and my backpacks to my “glamping” hut and gave me the lay of the land. With rain in the forecast for the next few days I was so happy to not have to set up on wet grass amidst a curtain of the mosquitos. “Glamping”, in this case, meant a room on a raised wooden platform large enough in which to set up your tent as well as house the provided camping chairs and table. A few shelves in one corner were plenty for keeping cooking items and toiletries. A bear can was provided to store food and a place to sit and enjoy a fire was just a few feet from the hut. It was cozy and dry and just the extra splurge I was looking for. She charges $50/night to glamp and $25 for tent only. There is a very well-kept outhouse that is shared among the three huts and there is filtered water and firewood at our disposal.
Lake Clark near Tulchina
Lake Clark near Tulchina
Since it wasn’t raining as predicted and the sun was actually out and the peak of the Tanalian Mountain was in full view, I decided to do all of the Tanalian Trails including the falls, the Kontrashibuna Lake, and the mountain on the first day I landed. This was no small feat. Motivated by the fact that I wasn’t sure if weather would grant me another opportunity, I hiked from roughly 12:30 to 6:30pm to get ‘er done.
The falls are unheard of. I’ve never seen a falls that small yet that forceful! And when the forest opens up at the Lower Falls it is nothing short of magical. The green-blue color of the water, the island-feel of the cliff across, and the deafening roar of the falls. It had a Gull Island feel from way back when I visited Homer. It was breathtaking. That part of the trek was roughly 1.5hr from the campground with crossing from the far end of the airstrip to the trailhead itself taking about 30min.
Continuing another 30min from the falls, I landed at the obvious ending of the Tanalian Trail at Kontrashibuna Lake. So peaceful. So blue. If one wanted, I suspect the trail continues as a brush path all the way around the lake. A great spot for a picnic or a fire.
Tanalian Mountain along the way
Heading back toward town, I looked up at the mountain, taunting me, and decided that I’d better have a go at it. When the trail split off between continuing back toward town and venturing right to the mountain, I turned right. I made it a bit past the steel pipe surrounded by rocks located along the ridge before being forced to turn back. At roughly 1.5hr in, locals told me I had only about 30 to the summit. Unfortunately, I was well into clouds at that point and couldn’t see more than 10ft in front of me. What really sealed the deal was when I accidentally snuck up on a momma sheep and her calf. I stopped to take a photo (duh), which I don’t think she liked, because suddenly she was running toward me. I then realized that, to my right, a male sheep– you know, the ones with horns!– was running in my direction but at a slightly upward angle. I couldn’t tell if I was witnessing a happy reunion between mom and pop or if the family was coming for me. So I decided that I had done my part. I was floored over and over again by the view along the way. I had some amazing photos to take home. I was winning. Why push my luck? I was also told that it was good I had turned around because the trail is easy to lose the further up you go, especially when in the cloud, and it gets very narrow near the top, so, best I not fall off!
A steep incline
Overgrown trail
Mountain goat in the cloud!
Tanalian Falls from up above!
The view from the pipeline
My feet were hurting so bad as I made my way down the mountain and back to Tulchina– an hour down the mountain and another 1.5hrs from the mountain to the campground. I was literally moaning outloud with each step. When I finally got back to my hut and was ready for bed at roughly 7:30pm, I attempted to journal– I was nodding off in between words! So I listened to my body and woke up with no alarm at 11am the next day. Smh– having gone directly from an evening shift to the airport and getting only a few naps on the flight in, I obviously needed it.
The next few days were relatively uneventful and that made it that much better. I attempted to kayak but only lasted an hour on the water as I was having a great attack the entire time that I might capsize. With so many boats and float planes coming and going and having little to no experience with wakes and it having finally rained overnight, I was beyond myself. I know my limits!
So I filled my free time finishing Pete Holmes’ “Comedy Sex God”, listening to Dan Harris podcast episodes, reading my Dharma books, meditating, and doing yoga. I hung out at the lake, bought coffee at the Cranberry Cache, and chatted frequently with the super nice ranger at the visitor center. I watched the planes come and go at the harbor. I relished in the fact that I had nowhere to be, that there was nothing on the calendar, and that nothing was expected of me. I could just be with amazing mountains in my foreground and the greenest-bluest lake at my feet.
Kayaking adventure
One of the few side roads in town
NPS
Cranberry Cache
Port Alsworth harbor at the Lake Air airstrip
Tanalian Mountain from town
The flight between Anchorage and Port Alsworth, if direct, is about 1hr. And it is a spectacular one hour. Like getting a free sightseeing tour, the plane ventures over the Aleutian Mountain Range, passing over glacier after glacier, Mt. Redoubt, and the Gulf of Alaska. The trip was worth it for this alone. Alaska is a spectacular state with so much unknown to Lower 48ers like myself. What a privilege it was to explore so much of it. And with still a few more places to see, I know it will fall short of nothing less than #blessings.
The Route: Anchorage-Nabesna Road-McCarthy
Road-Anchorage
Days: 4
Getting to Wrangell-St Elias National Park from Anchorage is no small feet, no matter which way you enter. Though there is a visitor center roughly 3.5hrs from Anchorage near GlenAllen (turn right at the split and continue another 15minutes or so– entrance is on the left), the two main roads are Nabesna in the North and McCarthy in the center. I had my hopes set on two hikes in Nabesna: Caribou Creek and Skookum Volcano. I got washed out of the latter and couldn’t cross the waters required to reach it but, boy, am I glad it turned out that way!
DAY 1: TRAVEL. A 5.5hrs drive from Anchorage to Nabesna. Despite prior weather reports, it rained half of the day on the way in and all throughout the night. Luckily I got a spot at the main Kendesnii Campground and found a small area beneath a tree where I could pitch my tent and get a small amount of reprieve. The Nabesna Road is full of potholes and it was slow going, so I didn’t finish setting up my tent and getting ready for bed until roughly 10pm. With just enough light to see and the rain letting up a bit, everything fell into place and my eyes were closed before I knew it.
DAY 2: HIKING. I was so excited to wake up that morning to tackle those two hikes. From looking at the AllTrails app, it appeared that I could do both in the same day if the road conditions were good enough. Out of the campgrounds I turned to the right and drove approximately 10 minutes before encountering my first stream. There was no way through it. The rain had made the current so strong and the water so high, that I couldn’t see how deep it was or where it was shallow and safe for my car to pass. I’m also driving a low to the ground, 2001, Subaru outback. Not exactly a high riding ATV! So, going against my heart but in alignment with my adult mind, I turned around and headed for the Caribou Creek trailhead instead. The road, with so many potholes, was long for even those few miles but, as luck would have it, the trail itself was open and manageable. It was roughly 30 minutes before I came to my first on-foot water crossing. And to my pleasure, after a little bit if hunting, I found two logs that had been placed across the stream by someone before me. I scrambled carefully across. I still got wet due to the little bit of bush whacking required to get back on the main path but the challenge of it was so exciting! The rest of the hike was a moderate uphill, relatively muddy, but with views that got better and better as I climbed. I knew that the trail ended at a cabin and the cabin soon came into site. Unfortunately, there was one more water crossing at which I could not find a way to keep my boots from getting wet so I decided that I’d better not cross. At just a few yards away from the end of the trail I consider myself successful! Going down was even more fun with the views easier to enjoy and the lay of the land before me. Within 3 hours I was back at the car. On my drive back to the campsite I couldn’t resisted going the extra 10 minutes past the campground to scope out that first vehicle-water crossing, just in caseā¦ And to my delight, because it hadn’t rained since last night, the water was significantly lower and slower. I could see where my car should drive! But, thinking better of it, I decided, again, not to attempt crossing because I had no cellphone service and no way of knowing if the rain would return. I recognized that, even if I made it the remaining 7miles to the Skookum Volcano trail, I had no way of knowing if I could make it back. So after much deliberation, I decided that maybe it was more worth driving to the other part of Wrangall-St Elias National Park instead of staying two more days in Nabesna where I was washed in. In the interest of time, I was cutting it close to do both sections of the largest national park in the United States (it’s 6x the sizes of Yellowstone!). So, having made the decision, I raced back to the campsite, got all my things in order, and rushed to bed for an early morning start.
The cabin is there in the distance!
That view, though!
DAY 3: TRAVEL. I am so glad I made this decision! Hands down one of the best drives I’ve ever taken! Waking at 5am and on the road by 6, the sky was clear, the sun was rising, and the mountains were in full view and gorgeous the entirety of Nabesna Road back to the highway and all the way down the highway to the turn towards Chitna and McCarthy. One of the reasons why it took me roughly 8.5hours to get from the Kendesnii Campground to the Kennicott Basecamp outside of McCarthy is because I couldn’t stop myself from pulling over and taking pictures! I was beyond high. The hares on the side of the road were a delight, as well, and accompanied me my entire way to the basecamp. Breakfast shortly after Chitna on the side of the road with this (see below) as my foreground didn’t hurt either! McCarthy Road is equal, if not worse, to Nabesna Road with regard to potholes. For long stretches I was driving roughly 15 to 20 mph. It was a true practice in the Zen I don’t have! When I finally arrived it was 3:30pm. Not enough time to truly enjoy Kennicott before the several national park service exhibits closed at 5. So, instead, I made a reservation for the 9:30am Kennicott tour, bought a ticket for the shuttle from McCarthy to Kennicott at the main office building in McCarthy, enjoyed a hot beverage from a small shop and a salad from The Potato, and surveyed the rest of the small town before returning to basecamp. There, I pitched my tent right on the river ($25/night; $5 4hr parking; $10 all day parking), did yoga with the evening sun shining down on me, and settled in early.
Breakfast spot!
Glacier in our backyard
Camping on the river
DAY 4: KENNICOTT. Poking my head out of my tent at 5am rewarded me with a sunrise behind Kennicott glacier located behind the campsite. I always love waking for a sunrise. Gaining a little bit more sleep, I was able to wake at 7am, pack my belongings, prepare breakfast and lunch, and make it to the 9am shuttle with seconds to spare. The day just went too splendidly! The 2.5hr walking tour involved going through the old copper mine and learning what it was like in the early 1900s when fully up and running. Our guide was extensive in her knowledge and fun to be around. The coolest part for me was learning how advanced the hospital was– partly to encourage men from around the country to work for 6months straight in the mine or the mill, they decided to use state of the art equipment as incentive. Turns out that Kennicott was the first hospital in all of Alaska to have an x-ray machine! I took more than enough photos of every piece of lingering machinery, in awe of the physical history just left behind once most of the copper had been mined and the mill was shut down.
Kennicott Mill
Next, on a whim, I decided to hike Bonanza Mine Trail. I had no idea what I was up against! 3.5hours roundtrip, it took me roughly 2-2.5hrs of straight incline to the ridge that is just past the ruins of one of the old mines and 1hr to essentially fly down. It was no joke. Though the first 1.5hrs was not technically challenging as it is a wide gravel road with pitch-offs to houses owned by locals, the remainder of the trail turns into a narrow foot-path just after the first piece of ruins (I think part of the old tram system that would bring copper and limestone down from the mine and into the mill) and increases in incline. The trail ends at the main ruins but one can partake in a very steep scramble up small rocks to the ridge for a spectacular view of what you just climbed as well as Mt. Blackburn, the valley, and Root Glacier on the other side. It is well worth the scramble but be ready to slide back a few times and to use your hands to grip onto larger rocks to get there. I didn’t want to come down.
The trail splits with Jumbo a short way in.
Glacier!
The view from the valley
That final 20min…
Bonanza Mine Ruins
The valley between
The peak
Glacier!
But eventually I had to make my way back to Anchorage. After one more meal in McCarthy, I finally got myself to walk the 3/4 mile back to basecamp (10-15min; minimal incline) and drive back to Anchorage. After 10 moose sightings and several breath-taking sunset stops along the way, I was finally back in Anchorage at 2am and exhausted. I knew this park was going to be fun but I had no idea that it would be this amazing and this beautiful. I would definitely visit again. I’m even tempted to become a local myself– but something must be done about those roads! š
Disclaimer: I am writing this post for anyone looking for
details on the Valdez Goat Trail hike and find themselves coming up short.
Nothing written here is official or approved. Just what I’ve pieced together
from the hodge-podge of information I found from sources online, local
brochures, the AllTrails app, and Lonely Planet.
Valdez Goat Trail is
also sometimes referred to as Bridal Falls Trail, Wagon Trail, or simply Goat
Trail and branches off from the Keystone Canyon Pack Trail which starts at mile
marker 12 along the Richardson Highway (AK-4) and crosses Horsetail Falls Creek
via foot bridge before eventually meeting up with and turning into the Valdez
Goat Trail at mile marker 13.5. The trailhead is located just before Bridal
Falls on the Left if traveling North from Valdez on Richardson Highway (AK-4)
or just after Bridal Falls on the Right if traveling South toward Valdez. If
you have approached Horse Tail Falls while traveling South, you have gone too
far and if you have approached Horse Tail Falls while traveling North go just a
bit further and park in the next vehicle pull-off on the Left. The trail head
is closer to Bridal Falls than Horse Tail Falls but can be reached easily from
either vehicle pull-off. Make sure to take pictures and admire both falls–
they have earned their popularity!
The trailhead for
the Goat Trail is marked by a placard located in the ditch on the side of the
highway and is mostly covered by trees so it is not visible from the road. You
come upon it only after you start walking down toward the canyon wall. There are
a few placards and signs early on explaining the history of Bridal Falls and
showing Pack Trail Left and Goat Trail Right. My friends and I continued Right.
It was a wonderful choice! At roughly 800ft elevation over roughly 2.3miles, the trail is well maintained, easy to follow, and easy to moderate in difficulty. There are a few narrow sections that have a steep drop to one side but all areas of the trail are easily traversed and are at least one person’s width. Along the way are two lookouts, one with a view of the unfinished railroad on the opposite side of the street– but be cautious, this drop would be unforgiving! The trail ends as you open up to the middle of one of the many waterfalls visible from the road. I don’t advise attempting to cross the waterfall as it is quite wide and the current is very strong. But scramblingĀ up a ways is possible for even better landscape views and selfies.
Leaving plenty of time for selfies and safe travels with a small dog, this trail takes roughly 2-3hrs roundtrip. If eager to get ‘er done, one could make it out and back in probably 1.5-2hrs. My friends and I were pleasantly surprised by the jungle feel of this hike, the vistas, and the waterfall at the end. Bring lots of bug spray and be prepared for a muddy patch here and there. High on my list of favorite hikes in Alaska so far! Check out my prior blog for details on the others I’ve done. Hope this helps and ENJOY! š
The Route: Anchorage-Mantanuska Glacier-Valdez-Anchorage via Glenn Highway (route 1) to Richardson Highway (route 4).
Days: 3
The trip to Valdez
was enhanced by the presence of a friend from home joining me and my co-worker.
The goal: to create a “real” Alaskan adventure, seeing and doing as
much as we could on a short amount of time. Don’t worry: we succeeded!
First stop: Glacier View to hike on Mantanuska Glacier. Though I had seen quite a few since my arrival here in May, many visible from just the highway, walking on one was a new dynamic. Though access to this glacier is 24hrs and $30/person entrance fee if venturing on your own, we chose to pay for a guide with Mantanuska Glacier Adventures so that we could pay the entrance fee, rent micro spikes, and learn about glaciers from a guide all in one. An added bonus is that tour guides know the good places to go, where not to step, and get quote unquote exclusive access to certain areas as the trail marked for solo hikers is marked specifically to try to maintain safety and so doesn’t venture to every corner. Needless to say, we got our money’s worth. Our guide, Michelle, was awesome– knowledgeable, funny, and friendly. She made us feel like rock stars while we posed for photo ops and, due to our ability, she took us farther/deeper into the glacier than she does most groups. Starting out it seemed like we were walking along a dirt path to get the the glacier. We were pleasantly surprised to learn that we were walking on a layer of ice miles deep with rocks and sediment from high up in the mountains dusted across the glacier– there only because the movement of the glacier took it along for the ride. Some areas you can even scrape your boot across the surface and see the sheet of ice below. The micro spikes were a must as we hiked. I couldn’t imagine doing it without. We traversed the mud and rocks and eventually made our way into the blue ice where we saw admired mulans (vertical well-like shafts where water enters from the surface and acts as a drainage system), threw rocks down deep crevasses, and drank from a glacial waterfall. We ended with a short wade out to mermaid rock for one last photo shoot.
View from the Road
Crevasse
Walking on a sheet of blue ice!
Mermaid Rock
The drive to Valdez was equally impressionable. The mountains of Wrangell- St. Elias National Park is in the background for the majority of the first part of the drive. The road twists and turns and eventually narrows a bit. We eventually came across Worthington Glacier falling seemingly onto the highway ahead of us. A few turns later we emerged through Thompson Pass into a wide clearing of mountains and a ridge jutting out to the right. Purposefully, there is a pull-off immediately after emerging. It is well worth the stop– this clearing was both majestic and picturesque.
Somewhere in the Mat-Su area
Worthington Glacier
Thompson Pass
Thompson Pass
The next milestone along the drive was Keystone Canyon. What a wonder!! Waterfalls galore with one powering down right beside the road, it’s mist able to reach out (Bridal Veil Falls). I am a huge fan of waterfalls, so I was in heaven. In the same location is the historic site where they started to build a railroad in 1906 that ended unsuccessfully due to a gunfight.
Finally, we made it to Valdez, and, after a quick dinner at Fat Mermaid we called it a night to prep for the next day: wildlife glacier cruise. With few options as far as tours go, we went with Stan Stephens’ Columbia Glacier tour ($109+taxes/person). A cup of Kaladi Brothers joe in hand from a cute cafe called Latte Dah (I see what you did there!), we were ready to go. Starting out warm but on the chilly side, we saw otters almost immediately. Next came porpoises playfully skipping along our boat and sea lions relaxing along the coast. Then we caught a bald eagle perched on top of an iceberg. As we neared the massive Columbia Glacier, the air felt frozen and the water filled quickly with icebergs that eventually turned into an ice barrier through which the ferry couldn’t pass. We were so grateful that we brought layers! Temperature aside, the view was magnificent. Columbia Glacier is the second largest glacier in North America. NBD!
Sealions sunbathing
Porpoise!
A Whale’s Tail
Otters
Bald Eagle
Columbia glacier
Columbia Glacier up-close
The evening was spent in town getting dinner at Nat Shack, ice cream at Northern Treats, and drinks at The Boardroom where we were pleasantly surprised by the shenanigans of a live rock band at 10pm. Before that we visited the Maxine and Jesse Whitney Museum to learn about and admire the collection of native art and artifacts. Though the town is small and follows suit with the majority of other towns in Alaska, it was pleasant enough and we enjoyed ourselves plenty.
The drive back to Anchorage was equally eventful. We stopped at the Solomon Gulch Hatchery and learned about salmon migration and the incubation of their eggs. Next we hiked Valdez Goat Trail, also known as Bridal Falls Trail, which branches from the Pack or Wagon Trail. An easy 4mi roundtrip trek along the Richardson Highway, this trail features 2 outlooks and a massive waterfall at the end and is a must see for anyone looking for a shorter hike near town. Next we stopped again at the portion of Thompson Pass that overlooks the valley from a rocky vantage point. We had to get the photos that we didn’t get on the way down!
Solomon Gultch Hatchery
Valdez Goat Trail
Waterfall at the end of the rainbow
Though held up
slightly by traffic, the rest of the ride to Anchorage was smooth and sunny. We
had such amazing luck on this adventure– even spotting 3 moose on the side of
the road. Truly, a must-do drive for anyone visiting Alaska.
Flattop— Anchorage. 3.3mi roundtrip. 1400ft elevation. 1hr to the top. 2hrs roundtrip. Rock scramble/climbing to summit– a true create-your-own-adventure-style hike. Can be windy a the top. Views of the city and the water. Many go further to summits two and three for added challenge.
Exit Glacier Trail-– Seward. Kenai Fjords National Park. 1.8mi roundtrip. 260ft elevation. 30min to the view. 1hr to the toe. 2hrs roundtrip. Has greatly receded over the years. Still a wonder to take in.
Bird Ridge— Girdwood. 4.6mi roundtrip. 3200ft elevation. 2-2.5hrs to the top. 4hrs roundtrip. Amazing views of the surrounding mountains and Turnagain Arm.
Thunderbird Falls— Chugiak. 1.8mi roundtrip. 1.5hrs roundtrip with time at the falls. Easy trail with 300ft elevation gain. Ends at the falls. Hidden feel though well-trafficked.
Winner Creek Trail & Handtram— Girdwood. 6.4mi roundtrip. 1200ft elevation gain. 2-2-2.5hrs roundtrip. Easy, wide, and well-maintained trail that features small waterfalls and beautiful green forest. Planks bridges cross smaller waters. Handtram in the middle for the river. Very fun and vibrant hike.
Handtram!
Some elevation gain
Mini waterfall!
Love the brightness of this green!
Mt. Baldy— Eagle River. 2mi roundtrip. 1500ft elevation. 45min to the top. 1.5hrs roundtrip. Though this trail can technically be a loop making it 4.6mi roundtrip, a stop at the peak is more than enough. Straight up. Tough. Beautiful views of Eagle River Valley and the water.
Skilak Lookout Trail— Cooper Landing. 4 1mi roundtrip. 800ft elevation. 45min to the top. 2hrs roundtrip. Magical experience. Unique blue color of the lake. Steep.
Slaughter Gulch— Cooper Landing. 3.9mi roundtrip. 2600ft elevation. 2hrs to the top. 3hrs roundtrip. Every bit a slaughter! Steep uphill. False summits. View of the lakes including Skilak Lake way off in the distance to the right.
Portage Pass Trail— Whittier. 5.4mi roundtrip. 1600ft elevation. 2hrs roundtrip not including time relaxing at the lake. Starts out very steep until reaching to actual Portage Pass. Remaining is relatively flat with some inclines here and there and then a steeper decline for a few minutes to the actual lake. Small lake on the right roughly half way through the pass. Trail ends right at the lake with Portage Glacier across from it. Great place for a picnic. No obvious way to hike up to or onto the glacier.
Twin Peaks w/ Lake Eklutna Overlook-– North of Anchorage. 4.8mi roundtrip. Roughly 1hr to the first Lake Eklutna overlook. Roughly 40min to Twin Peaks overlook. Roughly 2hrs 15min to the peak and second Lake Eklutna overlook. Beautiful views the entire way. Steep but manageable. Trail well-maintained. Well worth the effort– continue endlessly along the ridge line or just bask in the glory of the lake below!
The Bodenburg Butte— Palmer. 0.9mi roundtrip. 670ft elevation. 40min to the top. 1.5hrs round trip. Steep, dusty trail with choose-your-own-adventure to the top of you want to stick to the trail it climb a few rocks. Glacier, farm land, and river all in view.
West Butte— Palmer. 2.3mi roundtrip. 700ft elevation. 30min to the top. 1hr round trip. Same ending as above. Easier trail, though, several stairs to the top for the second half.
Lazy Mountain-– Palmer. 4mi roundtrip. 3000ft elevation. 1hr 40min to the top. 3hrs 20min roundtrip if you take the Loose Moose trail down. Take roughly 30min off if you just throw yourself back down Lazy Mountain. At start of trail, signs point Lazy left and Moose right. The two trails eventually meet up to scale the ridge. Extremely steep on Lazy. Switchbacks on Moose. Gorgeous views the entire way either trail. Added bonus of wildflowers on Moose.
Valdez Goat Trail— Just north of Valdez. 4.3mi roundtrip. 800ft elevation. 2-3hrs roundtrip. Easy-moderate difficulty with some narrow spots along the way with steep drops offs the whole way. Muddy patches. Buggy. Easily traversed and family/pet friendly. Amazing outlooks. Ends at a wide and powerful waterfall. Very beautiful, jungle-like trail with high payoffs. Highly recommend. Trailhead starts off of the Richardson Highway between the two vehicle pulls-off between Bridal Veil Falls and Horsetail Falls closer to Bridal Veil Falls. AllTrails app is accurate.
Dumpling Overlook— Brooks Campground; Katmai NP. 4mi roundtrip. Roughly 45-50min to the Outlook if being very bear aware and turning corners slowly and cautiously. 30min if walking a normal pace. To the summit is 4mi one-way so about 8mi roundtrip and roughly 5-6hr roundtrip if being cautious and bear aware. Well worn path but not greatly maintained so lots of over growth. Wear long sleeves and pants to avoid accidental exposures to harmful plants. Beautiful view of the lakes, mountains, and flowers at outlook– solid choice if pressed for time or traveling solo and don’t want to push your not-yet-eaten-by-a-bear luck.
Harding Icefield – Seward; Kenai Fjords NP. 9.7mi roundtrip. 4hrs roundtrip. 3800 ft elevation gain. Moderate hike. First half is below treeline with enough flies to drive you mad. At roughly 1hr in, you come to the first overlook or clearing and many people stop here to picnic and enjoy the view. Continue on another 45min or so to reach the cabin. Another 30min past the cabin and down the ridge will take you onto the ice of the glacier. Beautiful view of the glacier and the water the entire way. 360 panoramic views once above treeline. Look out for mountain goats!
Exit Glacier’s silt below
Traversing the snow
Hikers on the ice of Exit Glacier!
McKinley Bar Trail— Wonder Lake; Denali NP. 4.3mi roundtrip. Roughly 2hr roundtrip. 1000ft elevation gain. An easy and beautiful trail that traverses rocks, crosses streams, and travels through spruce forest ending at the river. Mosquito infested during the later summer days.
Spruce forest
The river
Mt. Healy Overlook— Denali NP. 4.4mi roundtrip. 2.5hr roundtrip w/ roughly 1hr and 15min to the top. 1600ft elevation gain. Views of Denali on a clear day. Rewarding hike. Not too difficult. Ridgeline continues endlessly.
Caribou Creek Trail— Nabesna; Wrangell-St. Elias NP. 7mi roundtrip. 3hrs roundtrip. Requires two wide and possibly forceful but not deep stream crossings that are manageable w/ appropriate footware and a walking stick or trekking pole. If you bushwack to the right of the trail where it meets the first water-crossing and remain along the water’s edge, someone placed a few logs over which one can scramble. Trail starts as a very wide dirt/stone path where construction is being done– minimal elevation gain. Once past the first water-crossing, a steady and moderate incline begins. Beautiful views of the water and valley opens up behind you as you climb. Muddy trail. Ends at the cabin just on the other side of the 2nd water crossing. A very serene hike. Accessible from Nabesna Road prior to any potential vehicle water crossings.
Bonanza Mine Trail-– Kennicott; Wrangell-St. Elias NP. 8.3mi roundtrip. 3.5hrs roundtrip; 2.5hrs to the summit. 3900ft elevation gain. One hell of a hike! Trail starts as a moderately steep town road with homes on both sides along the way. Trail opens up to a smaller summit on the right and the first set of mine ruins on the right (what I assume is remains of the tram system). A perfect spot for a picnic. Just past this, the trail becomes a footpath only– get ready to work! Very steep. Waterfall in the center of the valley. Trail curves left past the waterfall to the mine ruins. Scramble up past the ruins (a true scramble on small rocks, some two steps forward and one step sliding back required) until you are on the ridgeline. Enjoy amazing views of the Mt. Blackburn, the glaciers, the town, the water, and the mountain range. A fabulous hike but definitely difficult for the 2nd half to the top.
Tanalian Falls— Port Alsworth; Lake Clark NP. Roughly 1 hr one way. Part of the roughly 7.5mi roundtrip maintained parks service trail. Moments of steep incline and uphill/downhill; generally a flat trail. Views of the Tanalian Mountain as you go. A breath-taking site to see. One of the most impactful waterfalls I have ever seen in my life. The force of it. The array of colors. The clarity of the water. The way the trail opens up to the falls and the river feels like you just stepped out of the jungle and into a fairytale. Stay at the lower falls or walk 3 more minutes up the trail and scramble onto the rocks at the upper falls– you won’t be disappointed!
Markers along the way for Tanalian Falls Trail vs. Mountain vs. Beaver Pond Trail
Lake Kontrashibuna via Tanalian Trail— Port Alsworth; Lake Clark NP. 1.5hrs one way. Completes the roughly 7.5mi roundtrip trail maintained by the parks service. Moments of steep incline and uphill/downhill; generally a flat trail. Roughly 30min past the Tanalian waterfall. Clear ending where trail opens up to the lake with firepit in the center but one can follow the brush trail around the majority of the lake. So peaceful!
Tanalian Mountain along the way
Tanalian Mountain— Port Alsworth; Lake Clark NP. 8.2mi roundtrip. 3800 ft elevation. 2hrs to the summit from the start of the Tanalian Mountain trailhead. About 3hrs to the summit from the Tanalian Trails marker at the very beginning at the airstrip in town. About 5hrs roundtrip from airstrip. Roughly 30min more along the ridgeline once past the pipe marker. Narrows quite a bit over rock near the summit so be careful and don’t attempt if the peak is in the cloud. Trail opens up the entire way for sweeping panoramic views of Port Alsworth, Lake Clark, the Tanalian Falls, and the surrounding mountains. View keeps getting better as you go up. Very overgrown on the switchbacks near where the trail becomes above treeline but very easy to follow. Trail overall very well maintained. Would do it again in a heartbeat. Would do it multiple times a year for the joy of the hike and the breathtaking views if I could!
A steep incline
Overgrown trail
Mountain goat in the cloud!
Tanalian Falls from up above!
The view from the pipeline
Crow Pass: Crystal Lake & Raven Glacier— Girdwood. 6.2mi roundtrip. 1900 elevation gain. 3hrs roundtrip with time spent on the at the lake and/or glacier. Trail splits once in the valley– to the left is more steep because it takes you too the waterfall at the mine tailing and then requires one to scramble up to where the trail converges again; keep to the R for a much more steady ascent. Trail steepens to the lake traveling along the waterfall on the left. Amazing views the entire time once above treeline/ in the valley. Historic trail due to the mines. They ask that you not go on the tailings. Cabin at the lake is booked by reservation only– so serene, peaceful, and beautiful as it is right on the lake. Glacier only a short walk past the cabin– maybe 20-30min. Trail continues on to the rest of Crow Pass.
Reed Lakes— Hatcher Pass near Palmer. 8.7mi roundtrip. 2250ft elevation gain. 4hr 20min roundtrip. Several areas of larger boulder scrambling. Can be very slippery. Very worth the danger! First section is a relatively flat, wide path. Trail features a small pond after the largest rock scramble, the Lower Reed Lake roughly 30min later with a waterfall just next to it, and the Upper Reed Lake roughly 30 more min at the end trail.
View of beginning valley
Boulder Scramble
Lower Reed Lakes
Waterfall!
Upper Reed Lake
Wolverine Peak— Anchorage. 8.3mi roundtrip. 3600ft elevation gain. 4-6hrs roundtrip depending on tolerance for incline and number of stops. Roughly 2-3hrs to the top. Better view than Flattop though similar terrain. Beautiful lakes in the valley on the other side of the peak. Flat overlook half way to the peak is a great place to stop or to enjoy lunch on the way.
Anchorage w/ snow capped mountains in the back!
Mountains for dayzz!
We climbed that… :/
Lakes seen from the peak!
April Bowl— Hatcher Pass near Palmer. 2.2mi roundtrip. 850ft elevation gain. 2hrs roundtrip. Starts immediately with incline and doesn’t stop until at the ridgeline. Offers miraculous views of the Denali Range. Trailhead is unmarked and located across the road from the Hatcher Pass stone monument and main overlook/ parking lot.
Bartlett Lake Trail— Roughly 7mi and 4hrs roundtrip. Follow Tlingit Trail from Visitor Park Services (VPS) about 0.6mi and cross the park road where trail picks back up as the Barlett Lake Trail on the left. Continue straight to go to the river on the Barlett River Trail or veer right to hike to the lake. DO NOT follow AllTrails version of Barlett Lake Trail as it starts you several miles away from the VPS and the lodge at the end of Park Road, which doesn’t make sense if you are camping or staying at that the lodge. Instead, follow the Barlett River AllTrails map and zoom in to confirm placement along the lake trail.
Bartlett Cove & Forest Loop Trail— 1.1mi roundtrip. 100ft elevation. Leisurely walk from Glacier Bay Lodge & Visitor Center that passes campground site and loops back to lodge. Features small ponds. Great representation of the temperate forest.
West Glacier Trail to West Glacier Spur Trail— 4hrs roundtrip just hiking plus roughly 1hr at the glacier exploring the ice caves. Take the West Glacier Trail to the West Glacier Spur Trail which is a split to the right shortly before it becomes the Mt. McGinnis Trail. Trail is slightly hidden– stay straight whereas Mt. McGinnis trail curves left as a switchback; look for pink and yellow ribbons throughout– lifesavers! For two amazing vistas, go 5-10min on the Mt. McGinnis trail and then double back. DO NOT take the first available split to the right called Ice Cave Trail. Unnecessarily difficult rock climb with nearly same reward and only slightly more front-on views of the glacier and Nugget Falls. AllTrails is not correct with total milage if trying to reach the glacier as trail on map ends at a viewpoint. Keep curving to the left if facing the glacier and go around the water to find where glacier meets rockface– this is where ice caves are. Very slippery and larger rocks cannot be depended upon for stability or balance. Be safe and have fun!
The Route:
Anchorage-Homer-Soldotna-CooperLanding-Whittier-Anchorage via Sterling Highway
and Seward Highway
Days: 5
For my first real Alaskan adventure, a fellow co-worker and I decided on a road trip South of Anchorage to Homer with various hikes and stops in mind as we made our way back North to Anchorage. Until this point, I had a handful of day-hikes and one overnight adventure to Seward under my belt.
Homer is a beautiful fishing and beach town filled with bald eagles and smiling faces. Easily the best part of our time in Homer was the ferry ride to Glacier Lake Trail. After hopping aboard one of the vessels of Mako’s Water Taxi ($80/person) after finding their office along the Spit and booking the day before, our driver casually turned to us and asked if we’d like to “make a quick stop along the way to see some puffins.” My eyes grew wide. Ummm, yeah! And that stop was to a place called Gull Island. There we saw not only puffins, but otters, sea lions, and a mama and her baby orcas as well. The tiny island is inhabited only by seagulls– about a thousand of them. It was such a sight to see so many swarming the towering rocks. And below, the other wildlife just sauntered around. It was like I had died and gone to heaven!
Mama & baby orca en route to Gull Island
Gull Island
Otter floating on his back
Puffins doing puffin things
I couldn’t imagine it getting any better than that. Until we finished the relatively short Glacier Lake Trail hike, that is. After traveling across Katchemak Bay just north of Halibut Cove and roughly a 2hr trek through woods that open out to flat glacial moraines (roughly 20min miles with minimal elevation gain), we could see the icy blue water at the bottom of the hill below and the magnificent Grewingk Glacier straight ahead. Once at the lake, we were greeted by little and big icebergs and even got to witness a few small calvings (when bits of the glacier break off seemingly out of nowhere, creating icebergs). Now I really had died and gone to heaven! And for the icing on the cake, after a short time relaxing and taking in the glamour of the lake, we trekked down Saddle Trail towards the pick up point where we were met by spectacular views of the bay and Halibut Cove the entire way down.
Ferry at drop-of point
Early on in the hike.
Halfway through the hike traversing glacial moraines.
Final Destination: Grewingk Glacier
Icebergs
Vista down Saddle Trail to pick-up point
The rest of our time in Homer and on the Spit was relaxing and pleasant. Shopping at Salmon Sisters and Salty Girls. Dining at Little Mermaid and Fresh Catch. Drinks at Salty Dawg. Coffee and breakfast at Two Sisters Bakery and Portside Coffee & Co. And a beautiful drive along Sterling Highway to boot with several opportunities to pull-off and admire the view. A nice moment worth mentioning was discovering the memorial toward the end of Homer Spit dedicated to those lost at sea. I’m a crier and my eyes couldn’t help but well up at the expressions of loss and love.
Memorial on Homer Spit
And so we made our way back North bit by bit. First we grabbed drinks in Soldotna at St. Elias Brewery near the Fred Meyers. At flights for a dollar and oven-roasted pizza, you couldn’t ask for much more. We then continued North towards Cooper’s Landing– a small town along the highway. On the way, we stopped for a hike accessible via the Skilak Lake Road called the Skilak Lookout Trail. This has to be one of the most magical hikes I’ve ever done. Though quite steep, there are views of the lake very early on and the water is a shade of turquoise I have never before seen. Not to mention that, as luck would have it, it sprinkled for a few minutes as we started to descend and that bit of rain produced not one, not two, but three rainbows! The two moose we saw as we were driving back to the main road were pretty cool, too.
Skilak Lake
One double and one single rainbow!
As for camping, we chose a spot along the Kenai River at Cooper Creek North campground ($18/ single tent). The rush of the river passing by that night by the fire and in the morning while brushing our teeth was spectacular. So beautiful and peaceful. We were centered and ready for what we knew would be a strenuous hike: Slaughter Gulch. I mean, what kind of name is that anyways?? The roughly 1.5hrs straight up past several false summits was challenging for the mind but so rewarding for the soul. The final destination overlooks Kenai Lake and Skilak Lake can be seen way off in the distance to the right. Another Alaskan beauty.
Kenai River next to our campsite
Campsite @ Cooper Creek North
The final push
Kenai Lake from Slaughter Gulch
Right Vista from Slaughter Gulch– note Skilak Lake way in the distance.
After that intense morning, we were ready to reach our final travel destination: Whittier. After a short drive and a long tunnel ($13 charged going in; free when driving toward Anchorage; timed on the half hour depending on which direction you’re traveling), we’d made it to the small, no-nonsense town. Though by no means extensive, Whittier offers pleasant camping, cute shops, and good coffee. The main, attraction, though, is the access to glaciers and wildlife both via ferry and on foot. The most popular hike is Portage Pass Trail which goes right up to the lake with the glacier across it. The road to the trailhead is immediately to the right after emerging from the tunnel on the Whittier side. The end location is a perfect spot for a picnic as it isn’t too strenuous of a hike and the area feels like a remote fairytale even when a thousand children and their parents appear. Roughly 2.5hrs roundtrip not including relaxing at the lake.
A reverse view from early on in the Portage Pass trail during the steep section.
The top of the initially steep climb.
Portage Glacier from across the lake @ the end of the trail.
To get a taste of glaciers up close and personal, we chose to go with the 3.5hr Glacier Quest Cruise with Phillips Cruises ($109+taxes per person). The coolest part was getting lucky and seeing some larger calvings, not to mention the several breathtaking waterfalls and lot of sea lions.
Otters
Sea lions soaking up the sun.
Just as many waterfalls as glaciers on this tour!
The boat backing up to a massive waterfall.
A glacier and a waterfall and a sound. All of the water.
Me with a glacier!
The drive back to Anchorage held the air of contentment. Only a few hours and we were back. 5 days. 4 towns. 4 hikes. 3 orcas. 2 glaciers. 2 ferries. 1 kick-ass companion. Not too shabby!
