The Route: Anchorage-Nabesna Road-McCarthy Road-Anchorage
Days: 4
Getting to Wrangell-St Elias National Park from Anchorage is no small feet, no matter which way you enter. Though there is a visitor center roughly 3.5hrs from Anchorage near GlenAllen (turn right at the split and continue another 15minutes or so– entrance is on the left), the two main roads are Nabesna in the North and McCarthy in the center. I had my hopes set on two hikes in Nabesna: Caribou Creek and Skookum Volcano. I got washed out of the latter and couldn’t cross the waters required to reach it but, boy, am I glad it turned out that way!
DAY 1: TRAVEL. A 5.5hrs drive from Anchorage to Nabesna. Despite prior weather reports, it rained half of the day on the way in and all throughout the night. Luckily I got a spot at the main Kendesnii Campground and found a small area beneath a tree where I could pitch my tent and get a small amount of reprieve. The Nabesna Road is full of potholes and it was slow going, so I didn’t finish setting up my tent and getting ready for bed until roughly 10pm. With just enough light to see and the rain letting up a bit, everything fell into place and my eyes were closed before I knew it.
DAY 2: HIKING. I was so excited to wake up that morning to tackle those two hikes. From looking at the AllTrails app, it appeared that I could do both in the same day if the road conditions were good enough. Out of the campgrounds I turned to the right and drove approximately 10 minutes before encountering my first stream. There was no way through it. The rain had made the current so strong and the water so high, that I couldn’t see how deep it was or where it was shallow and safe for my car to pass. I’m also driving a low to the ground, 2001, Subaru outback. Not exactly a high riding ATV! So, going against my heart but in alignment with my adult mind, I turned around and headed for the Caribou Creek trailhead instead. The road, with so many potholes, was long for even those few miles but, as luck would have it, the trail itself was open and manageable. It was roughly 30 minutes before I came to my first on-foot water crossing. And to my pleasure, after a little bit if hunting, I found two logs that had been placed across the stream by someone before me. I scrambled carefully across. I still got wet due to the little bit of bush whacking required to get back on the main path but the challenge of it was so exciting! The rest of the hike was a moderate uphill, relatively muddy, but with views that got better and better as I climbed. I knew that the trail ended at a cabin and the cabin soon came into site. Unfortunately, there was one more water crossing at which I could not find a way to keep my boots from getting wet so I decided that I’d better not cross. At just a few yards away from the end of the trail I consider myself successful! Going down was even more fun with the views easier to enjoy and the lay of the land before me. Within 3 hours I was back at the car. On my drive back to the campsite I couldn’t resisted going the extra 10 minutes past the campground to scope out that first vehicle-water crossing, just in case… And to my delight, because it hadn’t rained since last night, the water was significantly lower and slower. I could see where my car should drive! But, thinking better of it, I decided, again, not to attempt crossing because I had no cellphone service and no way of knowing if the rain would return. I recognized that, even if I made it the remaining 7miles to the Skookum Volcano trail, I had no way of knowing if I could make it back. So after much deliberation, I decided that maybe it was more worth driving to the other part of Wrangall-St Elias National Park instead of staying two more days in Nabesna where I was washed in. In the interest of time, I was cutting it close to do both sections of the largest national park in the United States (it’s 6x the sizes of Yellowstone!). So, having made the decision, I raced back to the campsite, got all my things in order, and rushed to bed for an early morning start.
The cabin is there in the distance! 
That view, though!
DAY 3: TRAVEL. I am so glad I made this decision! Hands down one of the best drives I’ve ever taken! Waking at 5am and on the road by 6, the sky was clear, the sun was rising, and the mountains were in full view and gorgeous the entirety of Nabesna Road back to the highway and all the way down the highway to the turn towards Chitna and McCarthy. One of the reasons why it took me roughly 8.5hours to get from the Kendesnii Campground to the Kennicott Basecamp outside of McCarthy is because I couldn’t stop myself from pulling over and taking pictures! I was beyond high. The hares on the side of the road were a delight, as well, and accompanied me my entire way to the basecamp. Breakfast shortly after Chitna on the side of the road with this (see below) as my foreground didn’t hurt either! McCarthy Road is equal, if not worse, to Nabesna Road with regard to potholes. For long stretches I was driving roughly 15 to 20 mph. It was a true practice in the Zen I don’t have! When I finally arrived it was 3:30pm. Not enough time to truly enjoy Kennicott before the several national park service exhibits closed at 5. So, instead, I made a reservation for the 9:30am Kennicott tour, bought a ticket for the shuttle from McCarthy to Kennicott at the main office building in McCarthy, enjoyed a hot beverage from a small shop and a salad from The Potato, and surveyed the rest of the small town before returning to basecamp. There, I pitched my tent right on the river ($25/night; $5 4hr parking; $10 all day parking), did yoga with the evening sun shining down on me, and settled in early.
Breakfast spot! 
Glacier in our backyard 
Camping on the river 
DAY 4: KENNICOTT. Poking my head out of my tent at 5am rewarded me with a sunrise behind Kennicott glacier located behind the campsite. I always love waking for a sunrise. Gaining a little bit more sleep, I was able to wake at 7am, pack my belongings, prepare breakfast and lunch, and make it to the 9am shuttle with seconds to spare. The day just went too splendidly! The 2.5hr walking tour involved going through the old copper mine and learning what it was like in the early 1900s when fully up and running. Our guide was extensive in her knowledge and fun to be around. The coolest part for me was learning how advanced the hospital was– partly to encourage men from around the country to work for 6months straight in the mine or the mill, they decided to use state of the art equipment as incentive. Turns out that Kennicott was the first hospital in all of Alaska to have an x-ray machine! I took more than enough photos of every piece of lingering machinery, in awe of the physical history just left behind once most of the copper had been mined and the mill was shut down.
Kennicott Mill
Next, on a whim, I decided to hike Bonanza Mine Trail. I had no idea what I was up against! 3.5hours roundtrip, it took me roughly 2-2.5hrs of straight incline to the ridge that is just past the ruins of one of the old mines and 1hr to essentially fly down. It was no joke. Though the first 1.5hrs was not technically challenging as it is a wide gravel road with pitch-offs to houses owned by locals, the remainder of the trail turns into a narrow foot-path just after the first piece of ruins (I think part of the old tram system that would bring copper and limestone down from the mine and into the mill) and increases in incline. The trail ends at the main ruins but one can partake in a very steep scramble up small rocks to the ridge for a spectacular view of what you just climbed as well as Mt. Blackburn, the valley, and Root Glacier on the other side. It is well worth the scramble but be ready to slide back a few times and to use your hands to grip onto larger rocks to get there. I didn’t want to come down.
The trail splits with Jumbo a short way in. 
Glacier! 
The view from the valley 
That final 20min… 
Bonanza Mine Ruins 
The valley between 
The peak 
Glacier! 
But eventually I had to make my way back to Anchorage. After one more meal in McCarthy, I finally got myself to walk the 3/4 mile back to basecamp (10-15min; minimal incline) and drive back to Anchorage. After 10 moose sightings and several breath-taking sunset stops along the way, I was finally back in Anchorage at 2am and exhausted. I knew this park was going to be fun but I had no idea that it would be this amazing and this beautiful. I would definitely visit again. I’m even tempted to become a local myself– but something must be done about those roads! 😋
