The Route: Centralia- Ape Caves – Hummocks Trail- Centralia
Days: 1
http://www.mountsthelens.com/ape-caves.html
I visited Mount St. Helens at the end of October when several of the roads within the park were closed, including to the popular Johnston Ridge Observatory. There, one can learn about the famous 1980 eruption of this stratovolcano that took 57 lives and cost billions in property damage.
I didn’t let the observatory’s seasonal closure get me down, though. I made it as far as Hummocks Trail and turned an otherwise unfortunate bout of luck into a splendid day. Hummocks Trail is where the story ends. It began in the southern region of the park at a place called the Ape Caves.
Though I’m still unsure how I feel about the name, I know exactly how I feel about the experience. It was awesome! I, of course, played it more safe as I was hiking alone and didn’t want to find myself trapped, but, if one dared to, one could crawl in for who knows how long! There’s the upper cave (1.5mi, 2.5hrs out and back) and the lower cave (0.75mi, 1hr out and back) with the upper cave being for the more adventurous as it requires scrambling over boulders and scaling a lava wall. In the interest of time, I chose the lower cave. I was not disappointed. With only one headlamp and my phone flashlight I was woefully underprepared. It was impossible to see in front of me as the complete darkness just swallowed the light. I can’t wait to visit again with more gear.
I nearly broke an ankle at every step and I was terrified monkeys would come thrashing out at me from every corner, but it was so amazing to witness history in that form. I tried to take pictures but, obviously, they do it no justice.
Once back out in fresh air and sunlight, I continued my journey to what I was hoping would be Johnston Ridge Conservatory. Mt. St. Helens and the surrounding landscape are in full view for a good portion of the drive which made it impossible for me to stay on time as I could not stop pulling over to take photos.
I eventually got to the last trail before the road block which happens to be Hummocks Trail. This trail is a 2.4mi loop with the option to venture further along Boundary Trail which takes you to Spirit Lake and more. There are great views of the volcano along the way and, on such a bright and sunny day, it was both pleasent and serene. For a few moments I shared the trail with a deer, but otherwise, I was wrapped in solitude. That is my favorite way to hike. No distraction. Just me and the trees and the birds and the breeze.
Though I wish I could have done more hiking, maybe even to the base of the volcano, I didn’t want to push my luck by venturing out without any ranger or authority figure knowing, without signing in somewhere, and without getting the advice of the staff at the observatory beforehand. So maybe next time.
I couldn’t have asked for a more beautiful day, though, and I have no regrets. I unapologetically soaked up the sights, sounds, and sun and it was a fantastic end to my first month in the PNW.